Can a novice safely splice in wire to lengthen 5V charging cable? The 2019 Stack Overflow Developer Survey Results Are In Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)Desoldering from a graphics card25 W soldering iron not working properly?Thin wires - tips for stripping and soldering?Having trouble soldering headphone wiresIs it ideal to solder joins by placing the solder first on the component, and then having the soldering iron on top of it?Soldering multiple resistors in seriesHow do I make a good electrical connection with wire I can't solder?Can you solder a jumper cable to an LED then to a resistor directly without breadboard?Soldering wires directly to male AC prongsHow to prevent noninsulated wires close together during manual wiring a PCB?

Identify 80s or 90s comics with ripped creatures (not dwarves)

"... to apply for a visa" or "... and applied for a visa"?

Sort list of array linked objects by keys and values

The underlying space of a scheme remembers its affineness?

Can I visit the Trinity College (Cambridge) library and see some of their rare books

should truth entail possible truth

Single author papers against my advisor's will?

How do I design a circuit to convert a 100 mV and 50 Hz sine wave to a square wave?

Why can't devices on different VLANs, but on the same subnet, communicate?

If I score a critical hit on an 18 or higher, what are my chances of getting a critical hit if I roll 3d20?

Does Parliament hold absolute power in the UK?

How to support a colleague who finds meetings extremely tiring?

ELI5: Why do they say that Israel would have been the fourth country to land a spacecraft on the Moon and why do they call it low cost?

Huge performance difference of the command find with and without using %M option to show permissions

Working through the single responsibility principle (SRP) in Python when calls are expensive

Are spiders unable to hurt humans, especially very small spiders?

1960s short story making fun of James Bond-style spy fiction

Presidential Pardon

Is there a way to generate uniformly distributed points on a sphere from a fixed amount of random real numbers per point?

When did F become S? Why?

How did the audience guess the pentatonic scale in Bobby McFerrin's presentation?

Python - Fishing Simulator

Did the new image of black hole confirm the general theory of relativity?

First use of “packing” as in carrying a gun



Can a novice safely splice in wire to lengthen 5V charging cable?



The 2019 Stack Overflow Developer Survey Results Are In
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)Desoldering from a graphics card25 W soldering iron not working properly?Thin wires - tips for stripping and soldering?Having trouble soldering headphone wiresIs it ideal to solder joins by placing the solder first on the component, and then having the soldering iron on top of it?Soldering multiple resistors in seriesHow do I make a good electrical connection with wire I can't solder?Can you solder a jumper cable to an LED then to a resistor directly without breadboard?Soldering wires directly to male AC prongsHow to prevent noninsulated wires close together during manual wiring a PCB?



.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;








1












$begingroup$


I have a 5V 1500 mA charging/power cord for a camera that was too short to reach the mounting position I need, so at the suggestion of my electrical engineer father, I decided to try to lengthen it. He said to just twist and tape the wires together but I wanted a sleeker look so I decided to try soldering and heat shrinking. The cord will be left plugged in and powering the camera 24/7. The original cord is 20 awg but the closest I could find was 4 extra feet of 18 awg lamp cord (2 wires in both). So I cut the original, stripped the 4 ends between 1/4 - 1/2 inch back, spread the strands out, butted and twisted them.



Next, I soldered them together and this is the part I feel uncomfortable with. For starters this was only like my second time ever soldering and the first time with this iron. The first joint looked ok, maybe slightly light on solder - it didn’t flow very well - but it was holding together against a gentle tug. The second was my worst joint, it ended up with a little too much solder and kind of thick. I figured out that my iron wasn’t hot enough even though it was set at about 380-390. After turning up the heat, it flowed into the next two, but the tips of the insulation on the original wire melted a tad (see photo). Is that bad?



3rd & 4th joint



Next I applied heat shrink over each individual joint. The heat shrink seemed a little thin so I also wrapped a little electrical tape around one joint on each end of the spliced length for extra insulation. Then I applied larger heat shrink over both wires together on each end. Then finished it off with white electrical tape just to match the cord color.



Charger final wrap



My question is, is this safe to use? I tried plugging it in and the device indicates it is charging. I feel pretty confident it’s not going to short with two layers of heat shrink and electrical tape separating the conductors. But being a novice, I’m just looking at my taped up cord picturing a fireman holding it up for a look in the remains of my burnt home. I’m most worried my solder joints aren’t good enough and might cause a dangerous resistive connection.










share|improve this question







New contributor




xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$











  • $begingroup$
    Is this connection on the 5V line? Then i see no problem with this, the soldering you did looks good and sturdy. How much longer did you make the wire? There could be some problems with voltage loss, but if it indicate that it is charging then i guess it's not a big deal.
    $endgroup$
    – Linkyyy
    41 mins ago

















1












$begingroup$


I have a 5V 1500 mA charging/power cord for a camera that was too short to reach the mounting position I need, so at the suggestion of my electrical engineer father, I decided to try to lengthen it. He said to just twist and tape the wires together but I wanted a sleeker look so I decided to try soldering and heat shrinking. The cord will be left plugged in and powering the camera 24/7. The original cord is 20 awg but the closest I could find was 4 extra feet of 18 awg lamp cord (2 wires in both). So I cut the original, stripped the 4 ends between 1/4 - 1/2 inch back, spread the strands out, butted and twisted them.



Next, I soldered them together and this is the part I feel uncomfortable with. For starters this was only like my second time ever soldering and the first time with this iron. The first joint looked ok, maybe slightly light on solder - it didn’t flow very well - but it was holding together against a gentle tug. The second was my worst joint, it ended up with a little too much solder and kind of thick. I figured out that my iron wasn’t hot enough even though it was set at about 380-390. After turning up the heat, it flowed into the next two, but the tips of the insulation on the original wire melted a tad (see photo). Is that bad?



3rd & 4th joint



Next I applied heat shrink over each individual joint. The heat shrink seemed a little thin so I also wrapped a little electrical tape around one joint on each end of the spliced length for extra insulation. Then I applied larger heat shrink over both wires together on each end. Then finished it off with white electrical tape just to match the cord color.



Charger final wrap



My question is, is this safe to use? I tried plugging it in and the device indicates it is charging. I feel pretty confident it’s not going to short with two layers of heat shrink and electrical tape separating the conductors. But being a novice, I’m just looking at my taped up cord picturing a fireman holding it up for a look in the remains of my burnt home. I’m most worried my solder joints aren’t good enough and might cause a dangerous resistive connection.










share|improve this question







New contributor




xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$











  • $begingroup$
    Is this connection on the 5V line? Then i see no problem with this, the soldering you did looks good and sturdy. How much longer did you make the wire? There could be some problems with voltage loss, but if it indicate that it is charging then i guess it's not a big deal.
    $endgroup$
    – Linkyyy
    41 mins ago













1












1








1





$begingroup$


I have a 5V 1500 mA charging/power cord for a camera that was too short to reach the mounting position I need, so at the suggestion of my electrical engineer father, I decided to try to lengthen it. He said to just twist and tape the wires together but I wanted a sleeker look so I decided to try soldering and heat shrinking. The cord will be left plugged in and powering the camera 24/7. The original cord is 20 awg but the closest I could find was 4 extra feet of 18 awg lamp cord (2 wires in both). So I cut the original, stripped the 4 ends between 1/4 - 1/2 inch back, spread the strands out, butted and twisted them.



Next, I soldered them together and this is the part I feel uncomfortable with. For starters this was only like my second time ever soldering and the first time with this iron. The first joint looked ok, maybe slightly light on solder - it didn’t flow very well - but it was holding together against a gentle tug. The second was my worst joint, it ended up with a little too much solder and kind of thick. I figured out that my iron wasn’t hot enough even though it was set at about 380-390. After turning up the heat, it flowed into the next two, but the tips of the insulation on the original wire melted a tad (see photo). Is that bad?



3rd & 4th joint



Next I applied heat shrink over each individual joint. The heat shrink seemed a little thin so I also wrapped a little electrical tape around one joint on each end of the spliced length for extra insulation. Then I applied larger heat shrink over both wires together on each end. Then finished it off with white electrical tape just to match the cord color.



Charger final wrap



My question is, is this safe to use? I tried plugging it in and the device indicates it is charging. I feel pretty confident it’s not going to short with two layers of heat shrink and electrical tape separating the conductors. But being a novice, I’m just looking at my taped up cord picturing a fireman holding it up for a look in the remains of my burnt home. I’m most worried my solder joints aren’t good enough and might cause a dangerous resistive connection.










share|improve this question







New contributor




xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.







$endgroup$




I have a 5V 1500 mA charging/power cord for a camera that was too short to reach the mounting position I need, so at the suggestion of my electrical engineer father, I decided to try to lengthen it. He said to just twist and tape the wires together but I wanted a sleeker look so I decided to try soldering and heat shrinking. The cord will be left plugged in and powering the camera 24/7. The original cord is 20 awg but the closest I could find was 4 extra feet of 18 awg lamp cord (2 wires in both). So I cut the original, stripped the 4 ends between 1/4 - 1/2 inch back, spread the strands out, butted and twisted them.



Next, I soldered them together and this is the part I feel uncomfortable with. For starters this was only like my second time ever soldering and the first time with this iron. The first joint looked ok, maybe slightly light on solder - it didn’t flow very well - but it was holding together against a gentle tug. The second was my worst joint, it ended up with a little too much solder and kind of thick. I figured out that my iron wasn’t hot enough even though it was set at about 380-390. After turning up the heat, it flowed into the next two, but the tips of the insulation on the original wire melted a tad (see photo). Is that bad?



3rd & 4th joint



Next I applied heat shrink over each individual joint. The heat shrink seemed a little thin so I also wrapped a little electrical tape around one joint on each end of the spliced length for extra insulation. Then I applied larger heat shrink over both wires together on each end. Then finished it off with white electrical tape just to match the cord color.



Charger final wrap



My question is, is this safe to use? I tried plugging it in and the device indicates it is charging. I feel pretty confident it’s not going to short with two layers of heat shrink and electrical tape separating the conductors. But being a novice, I’m just looking at my taped up cord picturing a fireman holding it up for a look in the remains of my burnt home. I’m most worried my solder joints aren’t good enough and might cause a dangerous resistive connection.







soldering low-voltage






share|improve this question







New contributor




xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question







New contributor




xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question






New contributor




xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 2 hours ago









xr280xrxr280xr

1061




1061




New contributor




xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






xr280xr is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











  • $begingroup$
    Is this connection on the 5V line? Then i see no problem with this, the soldering you did looks good and sturdy. How much longer did you make the wire? There could be some problems with voltage loss, but if it indicate that it is charging then i guess it's not a big deal.
    $endgroup$
    – Linkyyy
    41 mins ago
















  • $begingroup$
    Is this connection on the 5V line? Then i see no problem with this, the soldering you did looks good and sturdy. How much longer did you make the wire? There could be some problems with voltage loss, but if it indicate that it is charging then i guess it's not a big deal.
    $endgroup$
    – Linkyyy
    41 mins ago















$begingroup$
Is this connection on the 5V line? Then i see no problem with this, the soldering you did looks good and sturdy. How much longer did you make the wire? There could be some problems with voltage loss, but if it indicate that it is charging then i guess it's not a big deal.
$endgroup$
– Linkyyy
41 mins ago




$begingroup$
Is this connection on the 5V line? Then i see no problem with this, the soldering you did looks good and sturdy. How much longer did you make the wire? There could be some problems with voltage loss, but if it indicate that it is charging then i guess it's not a big deal.
$endgroup$
– Linkyyy
41 mins ago










1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes


















3












$begingroup$

For a first attempt you have achieved an excellent result.

The result should be safe and reliable.
Cosmetically the result could be somewhat better but I have seen far far far worse in use and working long term.



The key points to consider are:




  • The output wires should connect to the same input wires as they did before the extension was made. Yours obviously do as the charger charges. However, this is an easy thing to get wrong and people sometimes do. The result may be as minor as "won't work" or as major as "charged device and/or charger destroyed".



    It pays to establish some way of determining which is the right and wrong way of connecting the wires. This is even more crucial when there are more than two wires.



    You obviously got it right :-).




  • The connections should be mechanically robust and not rely on the solder for strength.



    You got it right.




  • The solder joints should meet guidelines for good joints.

    Solder should flow and "wet" wire in both joined wires, be of correct appearance (smooth and shiny for lead 60-40 solder, less shiny for lead free solder) wires. Not too much and not too little solder.



    You did well enough.

    Your competence will improve with experience.




  • The insulation should cover each bare conductor separately and completely. Yours does.



    You did not show the heatshrink. It should extend past the conductor at both ends and when shrunk should not be mechanically removable without destroying it.




  • The outer insulator should be robust enough to maintain overall insulation integrity for more than the desired lifetime of the connection.



    Yours sounds good. The outer tape MAY fray and unwind somewhat over time but the inner large heatshrink should render this unimportant.




The most significant improvement you could aim at is improving the joining of the two wires. What you have done is entirely acceptable - but, the bare wire outside the joint proper serves no great purpose. This can occur due to insulation pullback/shrinkage when soldering. This is minimised by learning to solder faster :-).



A way to minimise join length is to decide how many wraps each wire will make around the other 'target wire", decide how much target wire length is needed, and start winding one wire around the other at the desired length away from the target wire's insulation - ie usually quire close. When both wires have been wrapped onto their "target" wires there is no bare exposed wire between the join and insulation on either wire.






share|improve this answer











$endgroup$













    Your Answer






    StackExchange.ifUsing("editor", function ()
    return StackExchange.using("schematics", function ()
    StackExchange.schematics.init();
    );
    , "cicuitlab");

    StackExchange.ready(function()
    var channelOptions =
    tags: "".split(" "),
    id: "135"
    ;
    initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

    StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
    // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
    if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
    StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
    createEditor();
    );

    else
    createEditor();

    );

    function createEditor()
    StackExchange.prepareEditor(
    heartbeatType: 'answer',
    autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
    convertImagesToLinks: false,
    noModals: true,
    showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
    reputationToPostImages: null,
    bindNavPrevention: true,
    postfix: "",
    imageUploader:
    brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
    contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
    allowUrls: true
    ,
    onDemand: true,
    discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
    ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
    );



    );






    xr280xr is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









    draft saved

    draft discarded


















    StackExchange.ready(
    function ()
    StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2felectronics.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f432302%2fcan-a-novice-safely-splice-in-wire-to-lengthen-5v-charging-cable%23new-answer', 'question_page');

    );

    Post as a guest















    Required, but never shown

























    1 Answer
    1






    active

    oldest

    votes








    1 Answer
    1






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    3












    $begingroup$

    For a first attempt you have achieved an excellent result.

    The result should be safe and reliable.
    Cosmetically the result could be somewhat better but I have seen far far far worse in use and working long term.



    The key points to consider are:




    • The output wires should connect to the same input wires as they did before the extension was made. Yours obviously do as the charger charges. However, this is an easy thing to get wrong and people sometimes do. The result may be as minor as "won't work" or as major as "charged device and/or charger destroyed".



      It pays to establish some way of determining which is the right and wrong way of connecting the wires. This is even more crucial when there are more than two wires.



      You obviously got it right :-).




    • The connections should be mechanically robust and not rely on the solder for strength.



      You got it right.




    • The solder joints should meet guidelines for good joints.

      Solder should flow and "wet" wire in both joined wires, be of correct appearance (smooth and shiny for lead 60-40 solder, less shiny for lead free solder) wires. Not too much and not too little solder.



      You did well enough.

      Your competence will improve with experience.




    • The insulation should cover each bare conductor separately and completely. Yours does.



      You did not show the heatshrink. It should extend past the conductor at both ends and when shrunk should not be mechanically removable without destroying it.




    • The outer insulator should be robust enough to maintain overall insulation integrity for more than the desired lifetime of the connection.



      Yours sounds good. The outer tape MAY fray and unwind somewhat over time but the inner large heatshrink should render this unimportant.




    The most significant improvement you could aim at is improving the joining of the two wires. What you have done is entirely acceptable - but, the bare wire outside the joint proper serves no great purpose. This can occur due to insulation pullback/shrinkage when soldering. This is minimised by learning to solder faster :-).



    A way to minimise join length is to decide how many wraps each wire will make around the other 'target wire", decide how much target wire length is needed, and start winding one wire around the other at the desired length away from the target wire's insulation - ie usually quire close. When both wires have been wrapped onto their "target" wires there is no bare exposed wire between the join and insulation on either wire.






    share|improve this answer











    $endgroup$

















      3












      $begingroup$

      For a first attempt you have achieved an excellent result.

      The result should be safe and reliable.
      Cosmetically the result could be somewhat better but I have seen far far far worse in use and working long term.



      The key points to consider are:




      • The output wires should connect to the same input wires as they did before the extension was made. Yours obviously do as the charger charges. However, this is an easy thing to get wrong and people sometimes do. The result may be as minor as "won't work" or as major as "charged device and/or charger destroyed".



        It pays to establish some way of determining which is the right and wrong way of connecting the wires. This is even more crucial when there are more than two wires.



        You obviously got it right :-).




      • The connections should be mechanically robust and not rely on the solder for strength.



        You got it right.




      • The solder joints should meet guidelines for good joints.

        Solder should flow and "wet" wire in both joined wires, be of correct appearance (smooth and shiny for lead 60-40 solder, less shiny for lead free solder) wires. Not too much and not too little solder.



        You did well enough.

        Your competence will improve with experience.




      • The insulation should cover each bare conductor separately and completely. Yours does.



        You did not show the heatshrink. It should extend past the conductor at both ends and when shrunk should not be mechanically removable without destroying it.




      • The outer insulator should be robust enough to maintain overall insulation integrity for more than the desired lifetime of the connection.



        Yours sounds good. The outer tape MAY fray and unwind somewhat over time but the inner large heatshrink should render this unimportant.




      The most significant improvement you could aim at is improving the joining of the two wires. What you have done is entirely acceptable - but, the bare wire outside the joint proper serves no great purpose. This can occur due to insulation pullback/shrinkage when soldering. This is minimised by learning to solder faster :-).



      A way to minimise join length is to decide how many wraps each wire will make around the other 'target wire", decide how much target wire length is needed, and start winding one wire around the other at the desired length away from the target wire's insulation - ie usually quire close. When both wires have been wrapped onto their "target" wires there is no bare exposed wire between the join and insulation on either wire.






      share|improve this answer











      $endgroup$















        3












        3








        3





        $begingroup$

        For a first attempt you have achieved an excellent result.

        The result should be safe and reliable.
        Cosmetically the result could be somewhat better but I have seen far far far worse in use and working long term.



        The key points to consider are:




        • The output wires should connect to the same input wires as they did before the extension was made. Yours obviously do as the charger charges. However, this is an easy thing to get wrong and people sometimes do. The result may be as minor as "won't work" or as major as "charged device and/or charger destroyed".



          It pays to establish some way of determining which is the right and wrong way of connecting the wires. This is even more crucial when there are more than two wires.



          You obviously got it right :-).




        • The connections should be mechanically robust and not rely on the solder for strength.



          You got it right.




        • The solder joints should meet guidelines for good joints.

          Solder should flow and "wet" wire in both joined wires, be of correct appearance (smooth and shiny for lead 60-40 solder, less shiny for lead free solder) wires. Not too much and not too little solder.



          You did well enough.

          Your competence will improve with experience.




        • The insulation should cover each bare conductor separately and completely. Yours does.



          You did not show the heatshrink. It should extend past the conductor at both ends and when shrunk should not be mechanically removable without destroying it.




        • The outer insulator should be robust enough to maintain overall insulation integrity for more than the desired lifetime of the connection.



          Yours sounds good. The outer tape MAY fray and unwind somewhat over time but the inner large heatshrink should render this unimportant.




        The most significant improvement you could aim at is improving the joining of the two wires. What you have done is entirely acceptable - but, the bare wire outside the joint proper serves no great purpose. This can occur due to insulation pullback/shrinkage when soldering. This is minimised by learning to solder faster :-).



        A way to minimise join length is to decide how many wraps each wire will make around the other 'target wire", decide how much target wire length is needed, and start winding one wire around the other at the desired length away from the target wire's insulation - ie usually quire close. When both wires have been wrapped onto their "target" wires there is no bare exposed wire between the join and insulation on either wire.






        share|improve this answer











        $endgroup$



        For a first attempt you have achieved an excellent result.

        The result should be safe and reliable.
        Cosmetically the result could be somewhat better but I have seen far far far worse in use and working long term.



        The key points to consider are:




        • The output wires should connect to the same input wires as they did before the extension was made. Yours obviously do as the charger charges. However, this is an easy thing to get wrong and people sometimes do. The result may be as minor as "won't work" or as major as "charged device and/or charger destroyed".



          It pays to establish some way of determining which is the right and wrong way of connecting the wires. This is even more crucial when there are more than two wires.



          You obviously got it right :-).




        • The connections should be mechanically robust and not rely on the solder for strength.



          You got it right.




        • The solder joints should meet guidelines for good joints.

          Solder should flow and "wet" wire in both joined wires, be of correct appearance (smooth and shiny for lead 60-40 solder, less shiny for lead free solder) wires. Not too much and not too little solder.



          You did well enough.

          Your competence will improve with experience.




        • The insulation should cover each bare conductor separately and completely. Yours does.



          You did not show the heatshrink. It should extend past the conductor at both ends and when shrunk should not be mechanically removable without destroying it.




        • The outer insulator should be robust enough to maintain overall insulation integrity for more than the desired lifetime of the connection.



          Yours sounds good. The outer tape MAY fray and unwind somewhat over time but the inner large heatshrink should render this unimportant.




        The most significant improvement you could aim at is improving the joining of the two wires. What you have done is entirely acceptable - but, the bare wire outside the joint proper serves no great purpose. This can occur due to insulation pullback/shrinkage when soldering. This is minimised by learning to solder faster :-).



        A way to minimise join length is to decide how many wraps each wire will make around the other 'target wire", decide how much target wire length is needed, and start winding one wire around the other at the desired length away from the target wire's insulation - ie usually quire close. When both wires have been wrapped onto their "target" wires there is no bare exposed wire between the join and insulation on either wire.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited 2 hours ago

























        answered 2 hours ago









        Russell McMahonRussell McMahon

        118k9165297




        118k9165297




















            xr280xr is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









            draft saved

            draft discarded


















            xr280xr is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












            xr280xr is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.











            xr280xr is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.














            Thanks for contributing an answer to Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange!


            • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

            But avoid


            • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

            • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.

            Use MathJax to format equations. MathJax reference.


            To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




            draft saved


            draft discarded














            StackExchange.ready(
            function ()
            StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2felectronics.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f432302%2fcan-a-novice-safely-splice-in-wire-to-lengthen-5v-charging-cable%23new-answer', 'question_page');

            );

            Post as a guest















            Required, but never shown





















































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown

































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown







            Popular posts from this blog

            名間水力發電廠 目录 沿革 設施 鄰近設施 註釋 外部連結 导航菜单23°50′10″N 120°42′41″E / 23.83611°N 120.71139°E / 23.83611; 120.7113923°50′10″N 120°42′41″E / 23.83611°N 120.71139°E / 23.83611; 120.71139計畫概要原始内容臺灣第一座BOT 模式開發的水力發電廠-名間水力電廠名間水力發電廠 水利署首件BOT案原始内容《小檔案》名間電廠 首座BOT水力發電廠原始内容名間電廠BOT - 經濟部水利署中區水資源局

            Is my guitar’s action too high? Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 23, 2019 at 23:30 UTC (7:30pm US/Eastern)Strings too stiff on a recently purchased acoustic guitar | Cort AD880CEIs the action of my guitar really high?Μy little finger is too weak to play guitarWith guitar, how long should I give my fingers to strengthen / callous?When playing a fret the guitar sounds mutedPlaying (Barre) chords up the guitar neckI think my guitar strings are wound too tight and I can't play barre chordsF barre chord on an SG guitarHow to find to the right strings of a barre chord by feel?High action on higher fret on my steel acoustic guitar

            Does someone need to be connected to my network to sniff HTTP requests?Without SSL, what vantage point does one need to MITM non-SSL'd HTTP?Burp proxy between non proxy aware devicewireshark does't show HTTP requests from other devicesARP spoofing on WLAN: seeing only traffic coming backHow is this “captive portal” intercepting and manipulating my HTTP requests?Tracking down Malware within home networkWhy are there open ports on my home network router?Replay attack in Wi-Fi (802.11) networkHow is my employer accessing my router when employer's laptop is wirelessly connected to my home networkMonitoring connected hosts in a network via hub and wireshark