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Large drywall patch supports

What is the best method to patch a large hole (2-3 inches) in drywall?How do I cover large gaps in drywall?How do I keep drywall around a patch from crumbling?Can I glue a second layer of drywall?How to patch long strip on drywall?Large drywall patch: how to avoid bulging seams?Leveling drywall patchDrywall Mesh Patch vs. Bulge? To remove or not to remove?Prep drywall before backsplashDrywall patching using 3M Patch Plus Primer

4

after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.

The existing hole with plumbing:

The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):

Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:

Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:

Dry fit of the whole patch:

My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.

plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall

share|improve this question

edited 30 mins ago

Alessio Sangalli

asked 1 hour ago

Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli

465

add a comment | 

4

after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.

The existing hole with plumbing:

The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):

Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:

Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:

Dry fit of the whole patch:

My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.

plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall

share|improve this question

edited 30 mins ago

Alessio Sangalli

asked 1 hour ago

Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli

465

add a comment | 

after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it.

The existing hole with plumbing:

The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes):

Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch:

Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch:

Dry fit of the whole patch:

My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated.

plumbing drywall drywall-anchor patching-drywall

share|improve this question

edited 30 mins ago

Alessio Sangalli

asked 1 hour ago

Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli

465

share|improve this question

edited 30 mins ago

Alessio Sangalli

asked 1 hour ago

Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli

465

share|improve this question

edited 30 mins ago

Alessio Sangalli

asked 1 hour ago

Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli

465

asked 1 hour ago

Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli

465

asked 1 hour ago

Alessio SangalliAlessio Sangalli

465

2 Answers
2

active

oldest

votes

3

It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:

1. Down both sides


2. Across the bottom between the two studs


3. Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations


4. Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing

This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.

share|improve this answer

answered 1 hour ago

isherwoodisherwood

50.4k456127

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
  
  – Alessio Sangalli
  25 mins ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

0

It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.

share

answered 9 mins ago

EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.1k23990

add a comment | 

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3

It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:

1. Down both sides


2. Across the bottom between the two studs


3. Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations


4. Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing

This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.

share|improve this answer

answered 1 hour ago

isherwoodisherwood

50.4k456127

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
  
  – Alessio Sangalli
  25 mins ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

3

It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:

1. Down both sides


2. Across the bottom between the two studs


3. Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations


4. Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing

This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.

share|improve this answer

answered 1 hour ago

isherwoodisherwood

50.4k456127

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  Hi can you explain "float (scrap) lumber backing"? This should rest against the other side of the drywall behind? Yeah attaching it to the studs would be a real chore. I feel like screws would be easier for me, as they are "self-pulling" while adhesive needs clamps to cure properly? Why are screws considered less than ideal? Or adhesive would be just a complement to further stabilize the patch. Sorry for the many, dumb questions.
  
  – Alessio Sangalli
  25 mins ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations:

1. Down both sides


2. Across the bottom between the two studs


3. Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations


4. Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing

This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there.

share|improve this answer

answered 1 hour ago

isherwoodisherwood

50.4k456127

share|improve this answer

answered 1 hour ago

isherwoodisherwood

50.4k456127

answered 1 hour ago

isherwoodisherwood

50.4k456127

answered 1 hour ago

isherwoodisherwood

50.4k456127

0

It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.

share

answered 9 mins ago

EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.1k23990

add a comment | 

0

It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.

share

answered 9 mins ago

EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.1k23990

add a comment | 

It appears to be supported by two studs. Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping.

share

answered 9 mins ago

EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.1k23990

share

answered 9 mins ago

EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.1k23990

answered 9 mins ago

EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.1k23990

answered 9 mins ago

EcnerwalEcnerwal

55.1k23990